K-POP: POSITIVE INSPIRATION FOR GENDER EXPRESSION OR MARKETING TACTICS?
K-pop - an indispensable part of Korean pop culture - is increasingly booming in the Vietnamese market. It stands out with diverse styles in music, dance, and fashion that have been well-received by young people. The diversification of "concepts" in K-pop culture is said to have contributed to eliminating gender stereotypes and positively inspiring gender diversity to the masses. [3]
While there is no denying K-pop's positive influence on gender expression through fashion and style, concerns remain about the nature of these trends: How much initiative do K-pop idols have in gender expression? Have gender barriers been broken down through K-pop?
In other words, is the diversity "concept" an expression of respect for diversity, promoting substantive gender equality, or are they just calculated marketing moves based on tastes?
K-POP AND THE TREND OF BREAKING GENDER STEREOTYPES
The 2000s marked the beginning of the second K-pop generation, along with significant names such as DBSK, Super Junior, BIGBANG, SNSD, and 2NE1... During this time, fans witnessed the dramatic transformation of idol artists. If before, female idols were associated with pure and lovely styles and male groups with strength and personality; the second generation of the Korean (Hallyu) wave marked a change in beauty standards: the girl group broke through with suits (SNSD), "girl-crush" fashion (2NE1) and the boy band redefined masculinity with a soft, gentle beauty that Koreans often collectively call Kkottminam - boys more beautiful than flowers.
Standing out among the "forest of flowers" was BIGBANG's G-Dragon – who gave colorful and disruptive performances, challenging gender stereotypes imposed on idols at that time [4]. For more than a decade, G-Dragon has been like a "chameleon" that transforms immeasurably. It is impossible for the audience to guess what his next image will be. He can be a gentle prince, a tough, bloody leader, and maybe a "freak" G-Dragon that combines masculinity and femininity in the same performance. Besides G-Dragon, we also have a representative of female idols: Amber Liu of f(x). Amber appeared with a tomboy image as a breath of fresh air into the K-pop market that was thought only for sweet and adorable female idols.
After the fire of the first gender-stereotype-defying shots, 2nd generation idols gradually became more liberal in expressing themselves without worrying whether the style was masculine or feminine enough for their gender. The style experiments of the 2nd generation served as a springboard for the boom for the 3rd and 4th generations of idols. Take the example of Kai, a main dancer and rapper of EXO, who once made fans could not stand still by constantly showing off his solid body in a crop top. At another time, he even confidently wore dresses [6].
FROM TRENDING TO INSPIRING
Back to samples of G-Dragon, we can see that he has the flexibility to switch between masculine and feminine styles and does not hold himself back into any norm to become more "manly" in the public eye. Similarly, the styles of female idols like MAMAMOO – a group of the 3rd K-pop generation also converge a variety of colors from pure feminine style to seductive and even "cool" style that people often associate with "masculinity." Even male idols who wear clothes that have traditionally been considered female such as skirts and crop tops have received support. For example, TXT Yeonjun once said that "dresses are very comfortable" and "men can also wear skirts." Besides, the fact that female idols confidently wear suits or unisex clothes also receives much praise.
Walking around today's music videos or performance stages, we can easily see the change in the styles of both male and female idols. Today's K-pop idols are not afraid to break down style and appearance stereotypes – expressed through the freedom to express themselves [7]. For countries that have always had a clear division between men and women, like South Korea, the success of K-pop idols has contributed to blurring the lines in gender expression.
As one of the pop culture phenomena that have an influence on young people, this breakthrough has undoubtedly inspired endless fans: through activities in "fandom" such as cover dancing, dressing up, and copying artists to have cheap moments, fans are also free to transform themselves into many new images. For example, male fans can freely dance in dresses and high heels, or female fans can dress up as strong and masculine as their male idols. K-pop idols inspire fans to express themselves without fear of being different. From those stylistic experiences, individuals can define and confidently express themselves in a way that suits their desires and personality, no longer confined to rigid and dualistic gender expressions.
K-pop, in particular, is said to have successfully opened up a new free space [3] - a space where both artists and fans can experiment with gender expressions without worrying about encountering gender stereotypes [3].
POSITIVE INSPIRATION OR MARKETING TACTICS?
In addition to the positive influences, we need to ask about the nature of these trends: are employers creating these iconographies to convey a positive message about gender expression or for marketing purposes?
First, the K-pop market still has injustices for female idols when only a few idols are confident in expressing themselves. While male artists are more comfortable experimenting with music styles, such as music about social issues or politics, female artists still rotate in three popular categories: cute, seductive, or hip hop [1]. Besides, regardless of the style they are pursuing, female idols often have to wear clothes that lack fabric which is embarrassing and uncomfortable. An article pointed out that the image of girl groups is still built on the male gaze, in which entertainment companies often direct female idols towards the look of a "perfect girlfriend" in order to attract more interest from male audiences [1].
In addition, whether male or female artists, the stylistic diversity of the groups is debatable whether this is a real inspiration for gender expression or just a ploy to make fan services and marketing plays [2]. Are entertainment companies really thinking about the value to society, or are they using them for the purpose of promotion and profit? [2]. At present, this is a problem that remains unconfirmed or answered.
In short, K-pop music products have always been invested magnificently from listening to visuals. However, with the popularity far beyond Korean territory, the visual elements convey ideas about Korean people, culture, and society [2]. Therefore, the performance of K-pop artists plays an important role in transforming positive and negative emotions to the masses in many aspects, including gender concepts and gender expression. In your opinion, is gender expression in K-pop a step forward to challenge gender stereotypes or simply a marketing play?